The California Central Valley is famous for its gorgeous wetlands filled with various waterfowl and its endless vineyards producing some of the world’s finest wines. As huge fans of this area, Naturalist Journeys crafted the California: Birding Wine Country itinerary from February 5-11. Explore Lodi and stay at the luxury Wine & Roses Hotel while our trusted guide, David Yee, takes you to see some of the most beautiful wildlife habitats in the Central Valley. Here’s a sneak peak of the top ten birds you might see on this trip.
First, this medium-sized goose boasts bright orange legs and a white face and flies in huge flocks at this time of year. Observe them mixed in groups of other species of geese. Additionally, Greater White-fronted Geese thrive in agricultural fields like the famous Central Valley vineyards.
The Cinnamon Teal is named for the male’s spice-colored feathers, boasts pops of dusty blue and striking red eyes. Spot these beautiful waterfowl in the wetlands of the California Central Valley!
The California Quail is native only to the western coast of North America, they were introduced to other locations including Chile, Argentina, New Zealand, and Hawaii. The California Quail has a scaly-patterned belly and can be seen running along their brushy habitats.
This chunky hummingbird is most recognizable by the striking magenta heads found on males. In addition, females share the male’s greenish-gray body. Anna’s Hummingbirds are only found in North America.
Lewis’s Woodpecker is one of the larger members of the woodpecker family, with pink, silver, and oily green feathers. It is also one of the strangest. Despite its family name, this bird’s flight pattern resembles a crow and foraging methods are like a flycatcher.
Another bird native to North America, the Western Bluebird is a beautiful backyard species that thrives in open woodlands. Despite their territorial nature, a large number of nests with youngsters in them are defended by males that did not father them.
The Phainopepla, named for its slick black feathers, coming from Greek origin meaning “shining robe”. Fun fact: the Phainopepla can eat up to 1,100 mistletoe berries a day!
Finally, easily recognizable by its strange call, this bird is a North American beauty. Yellow-headed Blackbirds are huge fans of wetlands, especially those sporting cattails.
Yellow-header Blackbird |
To sum up, you don’t want to miss this California Birding Wine Country tour, an immersive guided tour that allows you to bird premier National Wildlife Refuges and witness iconic western species. To find out more about our California trip, visit our website or click the link below:
Third-Generation Conservation Entrepreneur Lester Nanan is Raising a Fourth!
If there was a poster child—or bird—for Trinidad ecotourism, it would have to be magnificent Scarlet Ibis. Watching thousands of them fly into roost near dusk, transforming treetops from green to red, is the most poignant memory many birders take away from their time in the West Indies.
Classic Trinidad and Tobago tours are 10 days and 9 nights of the best Neotropical birding. Upcoming tours with space: Jan. 10 – 19 Mar. 7 – 16
Now a protected species and Trinidad’s national bird, it’s hard to believe there was a time when Scarlet Ibis were routinely hunted both for meat and for their colorful feathers, which were used to make costumes for Carnival.
Although he would later become their protector and champion, Simon Oudit Nanan was once one of those hunters, his grandson and Naturalist Journeys’ longtime local guide Lester Nanan said.
Trinidad Ecotourism and the Scarlet Ibis are synonymous. Photo Credit: Lester Nanan
A part-time farmer on a British-owned sugar plantation in the 1930s, for extra money he would take company executives from England and France to hunt in the massive mangrove swamps in Northeast Trinidad, and other times take their families out on nature cruises to view the birds and wildlife.
“My grandfather figured out that he was taking more people out to view the birds than to hunt the birds,” Lester said. “This is when an aspiration was born.”
Simon Oudit Nanan (foreground) and Winston Nanan. Photo Credit: Nanan Family Photo
At these times of tourism disruption, it’s important to remember this “aha moment.” The belief that there can be more value in conservation than harvest is what underpins the success of ecotourism-based conservation. That’s why Naturalist Journeys always seeks out conservation-minded local partners (like Lester Nanan for our tours in Trinidad and Jason Radix in Tobago), and why when you travel with us, you can be sure you are supporting sustainability and conservation.
Lester’s grandfather started a petition to protect the swamp, taking care to collect signatures from the influential families he was guiding, which led to the Caroni Swamp being named a national park in 1948, its 14,800 acres protected from development.
Snowy Egrets Flock to the Caroni. Photo Credit: Buck Snelson
A Masked Cardinal is a highly anticipated species, or a ‘hot number’ as Lester says! Photo Credit: Ken Janes
Tropical Screech Owl can be found in the Caroni. Photo Credit: Peg Abbott
The second generation Trinidad ecotourism pioneer, Winston Nanan, soon found himself drafted when Simon’s birding and nature tour business grew so popular he decided to pull his eldest of 11 children out of school at the age of 11 to help him.
“The passion and love for the Scarlet Ibis was growing, and the environment as well,” Lester said. “They were seeing it through the eyes of the British and themselves.”
When Trinidad gained its independence in 1962, the Scarlet Ibis was chosen as Trinidad’s national bird, and given a prominent place on the country’s coat of arms (alongside Tobago’s national bird, the Rufous-vented Chacalaca) and hunting of the bird became illegal.
Trinidad and Tobago’s Coat of Arms with Scarlet Ibis and Cocorico (Rufous-vented Chacalaca) Photo Credit: Sodacan via Wikimedia Commons.
Rogue poachers continued to hunt the birds, however, and Simon Oudit Nanan was deputized as an honorary game warden and given license to chase hunters out of the swamp. Sadly, his fervent defense of the swamp and the Scarlet Ibis earned him many enemies, Lester said, and he was beaten to death in 1968.
Left to help an ailing mother raise 10 siblings, Winston Nanan would avenge the honor of his father by redoubling efforts to protect the Scarlet Ibis and the Caroni Swamp and to continue what had become a sustainable and profitable business.
Birding the Caroni with Naturalist Journeys. Photo Credit: Lynn Tennefoss
The boats we use on our Caroni Exhibitions are non-polluting and quiet, so Lester can listen for the birds. Photo Credit: Mike Boyce
Rum punch accompanies us as we wait for the Scarlet Ibis to Roost! Photo Credit: Mike Byers and Becky Aparicio
The world can just melt away as we silently glide through the canals of the Caroni. Photo Credit: Lynn Tennefoss
Caroni Sunset means Scarlet Ibis coming in to roost; two spectacular shows simultaneously! Photo Credit: Buck Snelson
He learned everything he could about birds, first documenting every species in Caroni Swamp, then expanding his expertise to Trinidad and Tobago and then far beyond its borders. He transformed himself into a world-renowned self-taught ornithologist, and was invited to lead scientific birding expeditions throughout South and Central America.
Working as a Trinidad ecotourism pitchman, Winston invited photographers and editors from National Geographic to visit Caroni Swamp, resulting in a splashy feature article that put the country and the Scarlet Ibis on the map for world travelers and for other writers and photographers. Some of his own photos were published there.
“Everyone in the world wanted to come to Trinidad to see the Caroni Swamp,” Lester said.
A follow-up article in Smithsonian Magazine kept the frenzy going.
Winston Nanan was awarded a presidential medal “for 65 years of dedication to conservation in Trinidad and Tobago.”
Just after this Trinidad ecotourism pioneer died, in 2015 at the age of 74, Caroni Swamp was renamed the Winston Nanan Caroni Bird Sanctuary.
Both our Classic and Ultimate Trinidad and Tobago tours visit Caroni in Trinidad. In Tobago we also visit the Main Ridge Forest Reserve, founded in 1776 and celebrated in 2020 by UNESCO as part of a large new “Man and the Biosphere Reserve” for its ecotourism potential.
From the age of 16, Lester said he’s been a part of the family business. He remembers rushing home after school to help his uncles and brothers prepare the boats that ferried tourists to the sunset Scarlet Ibis show.
He went on to pursue an education in electrical engineering, but returned to the family business at the behest of his father. With more than 180 species documented in the swamp, Lester said, it had become a “must-see” stop for birdwatchers both local and international.
He helped Winston build a platform in the trees, where they documented the nesting behavior of the Scarlet Ibis. That experience helped to hook him for good, Lester said.
In charge of operations, Lester said he’s shaped the company by transforming customs into formal policies, from safety to naturalist training to implementing COVID-19 protocols to protect guests and try to preserve the business in this time of tourism disruption.
In 2017, flocks of American Flamingo began arriving in Caroni Swamp, adding to the biodiversity, but were being hunted, Lester said. What’s more, the $1,000 fine for hunting Scarlet Ibis was not sufficient to deter hunters.
American Flamingo have begun colonizing Caroni from nearby Venezuela. Photo Credit: Hugh Simmons
American Flamingo in the Caroni. Photo Credit: Hugh Simmons
Lester and others began lobbying for the Caroni Swamp to be declared an Environmentally Sensitive Area, which would protect all the birds within it. That hasn’t happened yet, but their efforts did yield a significant increase in penalties for hunting the Scarlet Ibis.
In 2018, the penalty was upped to $15,000 (US) and two years in jail per bird.
Lester said he also furthers the company’s ecotourism goals by hiring and rehabilitating former poachers and teaching them the value of conservation, lessons they pass on to others in the community.
“They will now tell their families ‘Don’t hunt this one;’ it’s protected, and I’m making a living out of it,” he said. “It’s part of a community approach to protect the swamp.”
As it has all over the world, COVID-19 cut into tourism in Trinidad, which shut its borders for 16 months before re-opening earlier this year.
To try and boost his business from locals, Lester created COVID-cautious private boat tours with an incentivizing basket of snacks. That went so well, he partnered with a local restaurant to provide three-course meals for families or private small groups, an innovation that has kept the business afloat as it awaits for a quickening from international tourists.
Meanwhile, Lester said he’s busy with another important matter: prepping the fourth generation of Trinidad ecotourism entrepreneurs, this time with a feminine face.
“My girls are already involved in the tours, birdwatching and pointing out species for our guests,” Lester said. “They will be the future of the environment, the swamp, and Trinidad and Tobago.”
Located on the northeastern coast of Central America, Belize welcomes travelers to enjoy its rich culture, delicious cuisine, and endless opportunities to explore. This diverse country features ancient archeological sites, massive barrier reefs, lush jungle scapes, and winding rivers. Naturalist Journeys offers two unique birding experiences to tour Belize.
During these two different itineraries, you’ll relish in:
Awe-inspiring birding:
With over 590 species of birds, Belize is a naturalist’s paradise! Join our guides and seek out extravagant Neotropical birds and familiar faces over wintering from North America. For example, you may find a Collared Aracari, or even a Barred Antshrike! This country offers extensive biodiversity to add to your life-list, so birding in Belize is a must!
Dive into Belize’s cultural history while we explore ancient cities and other historical monuments—some of the best in all of Mesoamerica! Visiting the Caracol and Lamanai ruins gives us access to breath-taking remnants of the Maya empire, a must see when traveling this country.
Lamanai Ruins – Leslie Williams
Lamanai Ruins – Peg Abbott
Group at ruins – Peg Abbott
New friends, long-lasting relationships, and unforgettable experiences
The only thing better than an incredible experience is crafting long-lasting relationships with your fellow travelers. By the end of every trip, we are toasting to new friends and unforgettable adventures. Above all, you’re now part of the Naturalist Journeys family.
Group birding
Birding Adventures – Peg Abbott
New friends – Peg Abbott
Spotted! – Peg Abbott
Between the captivating wildlife and the rich culture, Belize is a bucket list trip that we look forward to each year. So, if you need some help deciding which trip is right for you, here’s a breakdown of your two options.
True to its name, this trip takes you to the two “classic” or must-see lodges when birding in Belize: Lamanai Outpost and Chan Chich, nestled in reserves and protected forests, and offering varying habitats, Maya ruins, and tasty food. During our Belize Birding & Nature tour, enjoy extended time at each of the two lodges to ease travel and absorb the special attributes that give them such amazing reputations.
We offer two departures this winter: January 15-23 with James P. Smith (click here), and March 23-31 with guide, David Mehlman (click here)
This extended trip was crafted by our owner, Peg Abbott, through years of experience birding in southern Belize. The result is an in-depth birding and natural history experience at a pace that lets you absorb and learn. In addition, we’ve carefully selected FOUR of Belize’s top birding lodges along with local guide, Steve Choco (2017 winner of the National Tour Guide of the Year award) to help us navigate these incredible conservation areas.
We offer three departures this winter: January 27 – February 7 with Bob Meinke (click here), February 23 – March 6 with James P. Smith (click here), and March 2-13 with Pat Lueders (click here).
To learn more about birding in Belize (and our upcoming trips) visit the link below:
9 Birding Guides Share Their ‘Hook Birds’ and/or ‘Grail Birds’
Countless occupations and industries crash landed during the pandemic. At the same time, hobbies, especially outdoorsy ones like birding, took flight.
Stores ran out of bird feeders, binoculars became a must-have lockdown accessory, and birdseed became a “just in time” essential, bypassing warehouses as fast as companies could mix it, Audubon Magazine reported in its Birdwatching is a Bright Spot in a Pandemic-Stricken Economy on August 06, 2020.
Well before pandemic boredom attracted new birders to the flock, common and colorful backyard birds have routinely drawn new birders in.
Even professional naturalists and birding guides sometimes cite feeder species as the “hook bird” that caused them to start looking up and looking out.
Today we discover what nine of Naturalist Journeys’ birding guides ID as their hook birds and, their counterpart, “grail birds,” species they would love to add to their life lists someday.
It was easy for Steve to decide on a grail bird – or rather 21 of them. He has already seen nine of the 30 endangered members of the woodpecker family, Picidae, which also includes wrynecks, and sapsuckers. A resident of gorgeous Sisters, OR, and a woodpecker expert, Steve designed our popular Oregon’s Woodpecker Wonderland tour. Next year’s tour is May 18-27 and is a can’t miss if you love woodpeckers – or wildflowers, as we saw in the gorgeous photos of this year’s tour. Steve’s Peterson Reference Guide to Woodpeckers of North America, published in 2016, is a definitive reference to the 23 woodpeckers found in the U.S., Canada and Mexico.
Steve listed a couple of other grail birds as well:
“My grail birds are Dovekie and Inaccessible Island Rail,” Steve said, “and I am in the process of visiting all the threatened woodpeckers in the world, about 30 species, of which I have only seen nine so far.“
Two of those, the Okinawa and Amami Woodpeckers, Steve saw and photographed in Japan’s Ryukyu Islands!
Amami Woodpecker back shot. Photo Credit: Steve Shunk
Amami Woodpecker profile. Photo Credit: Steve Shunk
Okinawa Woodpecker headshot. Photo Credit: Steve Shunk.
Okinawa Woodpecker horizontal. Photo Credit: Steve Shunk.
Okinawa Woodpecker profile. Photo Credit: Steve Shunk.
Amami Woodpecker profile. Photo Credit: Steve Shunk
Dovekie can be seen on our Norway Cruise June 14-21. Photo Credit: Richard Crossley via Wikimedia Commons
Inaccessible Island Rail. Photo Credit: Brian Gratwicke via Wikimedia Commons
Hook Bird
“I didn’t really have a hook bird,” Steve said, “although the first bird I remember seeing through binoculars was Steller’s Jay. My real hook birds are woodpeckers.”
Bryan Calk grew up loving nature in his Fort Clark Springs, Texas backyard. He became interested in birds around age 10 when 30-40 Painted Buntings captivated him for a full summer as they were visiting his mom’s bird feeders in the yard.
“Who could ignore a bird like that, especially so many of them?”
He was fortunate to be mentored by local birders through his early years and went on to pay it forward at Texas A&M Agri-life Extension Service’s birding program doing public outreach, education, and running his youth birding program, Rio Diablo Birding Camp.
Painted Buntings. Photo Credit: Carlos Sanchez
Grail Bird
Bryan has many “grail” birds he hopes to see one day, and perhaps at the top of the list is the Pennant-winged Nightjar (nightjars are Bryan’s favorite family of birds).
Perched Pennant-Winged Nightjar.Photo Credit: Nigel Voaden from UK, via Wikimedia Commons
Since early childhood Robert has been passionate about the natural world and started collecting butterflies by the age of 11. Robert recalls seeing a male Western Tanager outside the window of his 7th grade biology class in southern California.
Western Tanager. Photo Credit: Greg Smith
Grail Bird
Though Robert has seen both the Harpy Eagle and Rufous-vented Ground-Cuckoo in Panama, he still dreams of seeing them both in eastern Honduras. Robert has the distinction of having created for OTHERS a grail bird, by putting the Ocellated Quail on the world map of bird watching. For many, Ocellated Quail had been considered a species virtually impossible to find, though it can be seen on our tours with Robert to Honduras.
Guide John Atwood has been a practicing conservation biologist for over 40 years, with his research focused on bird behavior that informs efforts to conserve habitat. His hook bird was an endemic:
“The Santa Cruz Island Scrub-Jay was probably the bird that really hooked my interest in bird behavior (although Least Tern is a very close second).”
Island Scrub Jay. Photo Credit: Devon Pike via Wikimedia Commons
I remember when I was a kid a Snowy Owl showed up in our neighborhood in Lake Elmo, MN. That was my hook. We always had bird feeders up at my childhood home, and binoculars and bird books handy. There was a “bird lady” in the neighborhood I grew up in, Mrs. Lundgren. I loved spending time with her, we would do bird flash-cards, and yard walks where she would help us identify birds.
Snowy Owl. Photo Credit: Peg Abbott
Grail Bird
I don’t have a particular grail bird – I like seeing them all, new and repeats.
Having traveled to 49 states, the variety of birds throughout the country attracted my attention. Early in my career, I became interested in a summer breeder to my neighborhood, the Mississippi Kite.
Mississippi Kite. Photo Credit: Steve Wolfe
Grail Birds
World-wide, the magical Harpy Eagle was a target bird of mine for many years, and the sighting was finally achieved during a tour I led to Panama Darien, seeing the Harpy Eagle one day and the rarer Crested Eagle the next!
Our “shorebird school” professor, who lives on Dauphin Island, had this to say about hook and grail birds:
“There was no bird that hooked me into birding generally, but a banded Snowy Plover helped me become a shorebird junkie.”
“I don’t really have a grail bird either…I still get excited at seeing Sanderlings…maybe seeing one of my Piping Plovers that have wintered here for years on its summer breeding ground, with its tiny chicks running around.”
“It’s hard to say what hooked me, I always loved nature, but obviously one or two species in childhood in England. I recall my first Short-eared and Tawny Owls near home in England, I was about 10 years old. Later my first Black Woodpecker, in Hungary, really hooked me, so much so that I later wrote a book about it.”
Gerard’s Woodpeckers of the World, A Complete Guide, published in 2014, is considered the definitive word on the world of woodpeckers, and is part of the Helm Photographic Guides series.
Grail Bird
My grail bird is Okinawa Woodpecker, which is an endangered endemic to the Okinawa Prefecture, Japan. One day I will get there.
“I’m afraid I never had a hook bird – my birding developed from a more general interest in natural history. But when I was very young, I spent many hours walking and cycling on the moors near my home and was captivated by the calls of the curlews and golden plovers. Shorebirds and seabirds have always held a special fascination, with Buff-breasted Sandpipers my favorite. I learned American shorebirds in the UK (thanks to the wonders of the Gulf Stream) and was once able to show an American his first Buff-breasted Sandpiper – in England!
Grail Bird
My grail bird would have to be Eskimo Curlew.
[Editor’s Note: It was much harder to locate images of professional nature guides’ grail birds, particularly in Michael’s case, as he wants to see an Eskimo Curlew, a bird not seen in 55 years and believed by many to be extinct!]
Between stunning landscapes, endless biodiversity, and top-notch coffee, traveling Costa Rica sits at the top of our must-see list. During our winter destination tours, Naturalist Journeys brings you to this tropical birding paradise. The opportunity to immerse yourself in the country’s abundant wildlife is hard to pass up. These trips provide a chance to taste local cuisine, capture amazing photos, and of course, experience one of the most incredible birding tours on the planet.
Aerial Tram at Tapirus Lodge
Northern Emerald Toucanet at Feeding Station | PC: James Wainscoat via Unsplash
Waterfall | PC: Sterling Lanier via Unsplash
Costa Rica contains a whopping 6% of the world’s biodiversity—many species existing nowhere else in the world. This wildlife oasis contains an overwhelming roster of tropical birds including parrots, guans, curassows, hummingbirds, tangers, toucans, and MANY more. One of the perks of our relaxing mornings at various lodges are the feeding stations flooded with local birds. To give you a look into the trips, we came up with a colorful list highlighting some of our favorite finds.
Scarlet Macaw
Even the slightest glimpse of the Scarlet Macaw will put a smile on your face! We hope to find this stunning parrot soaring across the treetops in groups or pairs.
Pair of Scarlet Macaws | PC: Zdeněk Macháček via Unsplash
Orange-collared Manakin
Known for its bright orange “collar” the Orange-collared Manakin boasts a unique mating call with an electric “snap” and is a delight to watch. We hope to see this bright little bird on lek.
Orange-collared Manakin | PC: Bud Ferguson
Yellow-throated Toucan
These large, fruit-loving birds are as social as they are beautiful. We had great sightings of Yellow-throated Toucans flying across the road as well as soaring above our heads on a recent tour.
Yellow-throated Toucan | PC: Greg Smith
Green Honeycreeper
While these green beauties stand out in a crowd, they actually use their unique coloring to blend in with the thick rainforest foliage. Needless to say – catching a look of a Green Honeycreeper is always a treat.
Green Honeycreeper | PC: Mike Boyce
Blue Dacnis
We spot this striking blue tanager in the canopies. Although it is common to lay eyes on one of these, its beauty never disappoints.
Blue Dacnis | PC: Peg Abbott
Purple Gallinule
The Purple Gallinule dazzles with its purple feathers and blue-green wings. It even has a unique talent! This nimble waterbird uses its long, yellow legs to tip-toe across lily pads – a sight worth seeing!
Purple Gallinule | PC: Tom Dove
It only seems right to acknowledge the two birds that deserve the award for most colorful. The Fiery-throated Hummingbird features a wide variety of colors resembling an oil-slick rainbow. Wildly designed, the Resplendent Quetzal is found in tropical rainforests ranging from Mexico to Panama and is the subject of various Mesoamerican myths. Its vibrant feathers are unmistakable and on our winter tours, we expect to see the males in full breeding plumage (hello, tail feathers).
Fiery-throated Hummingbird | PC: Greg Smith
Resplendent Quetzal | PC: Greg Smith
Noteworthy Neutrals
Finally, it feels necessary to give our flightless friends some recognition. Although Costa Rica is a tropical birding paradise, there are many sights to be seen. Here are some animals you just might spot on your trip:
Brown-throated Three-toed Sloth
The slow-moving Brown-throated Three-toed Sloth is loved by many. Our favorite attribute of this animal is its upturned mouth, giving them a constant smile.
Three-toed Sloth | PC: Peg Abbott
Mantled Howler Monkey
These monkeys are local to South and Central America and known for their loud calls (that can be heard up to three miles away!) and beard-like facial features. While they prefer the rainforest, we spotted several young howlers in someone’s yard on a recent tour. Mantled Howler Monkeys are one of many endangered species in Costa Rica being displaced by habitat destruction—so it is an honor to witness them in the wild.
Mantled Howler Monkey
Whether you’re a seasoned birder, looking to add to your life list, or seeking a perfectly crafted adventure, our Costa Rica birding tour package has something for everyone. Click here to find out more about taking a winter trip to this tropical birding paradise with Naturalist Journeys.
And before you go, click the link below to get instant access to trip announcements and the latest birding news!
Guyana travel offers a lush, tropical paradise where Naturalist Journeys guests often see 300-plus species during the course of our 13-Day, 12-Night tours.
One of the last truly untamed places on Earth, this South American jewel is home to some 800 birds and more than 1,100 animals, many requiring enormous unspoiled territories, like the Harpy Eagle, Giant River Otter, and Giant Anteater.
Harpy Eagle. Photo Credit: Peg Abbott
Giant Anteater! Photo Credit: Peg Abbott
Giant River Otter eating a Sailfin Catfish. Photo Credit: Bernard DuPont via Creative Commons
Geologically ancient, Guyana is part of the 1.7 million-year-old “Guiana Shield,” along with neighboring Suriname, French Guiana, and parts of Venezuela and Brazil. Some 1,000 bird species call this region home, nearly 8 percent of which are endemics. Some of our most sought-after species in Guyana are the colorful Guianan Cock-of-the-rock, whose mating dances we may see and the costumed Hoatzin, whose spectacular plumage is hard to forget.
Guianan Cock-of-the-rock. Photo Credit: Leon Moore
Hoatzin. Photo Credit: Greg Smith
Nearly 90 percent of the country’s inhabitants live in the capital, Georgetown, where we bird the coast and its famed botanical gardens. We fly over rather than drive the country’s single mostly-unpaved two-lane highway to the interior. There, our ecolodges are run by Amerindians sustainably preserving their ancient way of life and guiding our guests to its wild secrets.
Along the way, we land the plane to admire Kaieteur Falls, the tallest single-drop waterfall of the world, which you’ve only never heard of because it is only accessible by bush plane. Though Venezuela’s Angel Falls is greater in total height, its filamentous drop occurs by stages, whereas Kaieteur is a single massive, thundering cascade up to 100 meters wide, created as the Potaro River makes a sheer drop of 228 meters—nearly five times the height of Niagara Falls.
Kaieteur Falls. Photo Credit: Wikimedia Commons
Guyana travel, at least up to this point, is a bit on the adventurous side, said Dave Mehlman, who is leading the second of three small-group tours we have scheduled for 2022, which have a maximum of 8 guests:
In the ecolodges, our meals consist of wonderful native cuisine that is the definition of fresh and hyperlocal and made in time-honored tradition. Our lodging is rustic but comfortable.
Those who choose to wait to visit may find a more luxe form of Guyana travel in the future, but it will never be less crowded, more wild, more biodiverse, or more magical.
“Now is a good time to visit for birders who want to get in on the ground floor of a new birding destination,” said Dave, who has led tours for Naturalist Journeys for several years here.
“Unlike Costa Rica, or some of the more developed birding destinations, you don’t have to contend with large groups of international tourists,” Dave said. “We are often one of just a few tour groups in the entire country.”
Our tours are designed to visit as many of its pristine habitats as are accessible to humans:
In the rainforest, we frequently find mixed-species flocks of up to 50 types of birds feeding together, associated with army ant swarms or fruiting trees, occupying different layers of the canopy. Ant-birds, ant-wrens and ant-thrushes cover the ground. One layer up, woodcreepers mine the trunks, one layer above them, flycatchers and tanagers flit about in the understory, topped with canopy birds sometimes close enough to see with a scope. “It’s mind-boggling, really,” Dave said.
Guianan Antbird. Photo Credit: Wikimedia Commons
Guianan Toucanet. Photo Credit: Wikimedia Commons
Savannah wetlands offer the prospect of three massive stork species, the Jabiru, Maguari Stork and Wood Stork, and also highly localized flycatchers like the Bearded Tachuri and the White-headed Marsh Tyrant. It’s here we often see the charismatic Giant Anteater.
Jabiru. Photo Credit: Barry Ulman
Jabiru. Photo Credit: Peg Abbott
Jabiru with Wood Storks. Photo Credit: Pat Lueders
Maguari Stork. Photo Credit: Lip Kee Yap via Wikimedia Commons
We often spot cotingas, swifts, hawks and perching birds as we walk along the main road, which creates an edge vantage point back into the forest.
Pompadour Cotinga. Photo Credit: Mike Goad via Wikimedia Commons
Golden-headed Manakin. Photo Credit: Narca Moore Craig
Capuchinbird. Photo Credit Wikimedia Commons
And if none of these natural wonders convinces you the time is now for Guyana travel, recent developments have added some uncertainty to the future of this wild place.
Large oil discoveries off the coast of Guyana portend change to the country’s economy and lead to development.
“That is going to change the country as it has in virtually every country in the world where oil has been discovered,” Dave said. “Whether that’s for good or bad remains to be seen.”
Colonized by the British, Guyana is the only South American country with English as its official language, and culturally is more like Trinidad and Tobago in the Caribbean than its neighbors. The Brits relinquished the territory in 1966, but left a few things behind. Guyanans still drive on the left, play cricket, and boast a spectacular rum tradition.
Because it is English speaking, it is the easiest of the three Guianan Shield countries to navigate, Dave said.
“Guyana travel has a lot to offer in terms of birds and birding,” he said. “I have traveled extensively in South America, and I can tell you there really isn’t another place like it.”
Jaguar. Photo Credit: Creative Commons
Jaguarundi Photo Credit: Creative Commons
Margay. Photo Credit: Creative Commons
Ocelot. Photo Credit: Creative Commons
Oncilla. Photo Credit: Creative Commons
Puma. Photo Credit: Creative Commons
Because there is so much wild and contiguous forest, six species of wild cats call Guyana home (though they are furtive, nocturnal, and we would be very lucky to spot them.) You’ve heard of Jaguar, Puma and Ocelot, but what about Jaguarundi, Ocilla and Margay? Another reminder just how much new there is to see with Guyana travel!
Guided by Naturalist Journeys’ founder Peg Abbott, our July 2-9 Southeast Alaska Cruise to Glacier Bay will be an intimate experience on a well-appointed ship that holds just 36 passengers! Built for close encounters with some of the most charismatic animals found anywhere in North America, the Safari Explorer is designed to go where mega cruise ships simply can’t.
Charting our path amid Southeast Alaska’s island archipelago, we are all but certain to see Humpback Whales, Orcas, Sea Lions and seals, seabirds, shorebirds and many other species.
On the 2021 dates of this cruise, Peg Abbott’s group were mesmerized by cooperative bubble feeding by Humpback Whales that she described this way in the trip report:
“This fine evening was one we will all have indelibly inked into our brains, full of beauty and wonder…We entered what was described as “whale soup”, an area of so much concentrated food that multiple Humpback Whales converged there. It would not be an exaggeration to say we saw over thirty to forty individuals surrounding the boat, with some at very close range, and others in the distance. Fish were boiling to the surface, and we could see streams of them moving and glittering in the light, at times looking like a river. We could see whale blows erupt like small geysers, often six or seven in a small area, some distant and some close, often in an alignment so you’d take in ten or twelve at one time.”
In addition to our small, fully vaccinated group and crew, our ship, the Safari Explorer also carries kayaks and skiffs, which we use to get into even more shallow waters closer to shore. Our ship is equipped with a wonderful feature that allows guests to get into and out of their kayaks on the ship.
Easy in and out for kayak explorations.
Our skiffs take us where even our nimble ship can’t go.
Our kayak fleet awaits!
This fresh and briny kelp tasting was a hit!
Moving closer to shore, we are able to take in animals that roam or frequent the shoreline, including seabirds, shorebirds and mammals such as Grizzly Bears, which our 2021 guests did see this year from a skiff!
Grizzly Bear are a not uncommon sight
Grizzly Bear exploring Alaska’s shore
Sea Otter, Photo Credit: Greg Smith
Horned Puffins
This male Long-Tailed Duck in breeding plumage was so busy courting his lady, he didn’t seem to be feeding.
Some of the wonders are on and not off the ship! Cocktails and wine are included along with the spectacular food that awaits our guests.
Surf and Turf
Delectable Dessert
Crab Night!
Here, written by your Southeast Alaska tour guide and Naturalist Journeys Founder Peg Abbott, are some reasons why cruising is a wonderful way to travel:
Why Cruise with Naturalist Journeys?
Cruising is convenient. There’s a magic to unpacking once and having everything taken care of. All you have to do is immerse in the experience. But there is so much more to it! It’s simply the best way to experience destinations that can’t be seen as well by land.
Cruising takes you to magical coastal landscapes. These landscapes have shaped and transformed vibrant cultures for centuries, and they are key to so many dynamic species of wildlife. For birders, a trip along a coastline affords plentiful seabirds and access to far-away places where stunning species reside.
This fresh and briny kelp tasting was a hit!
Cruising makes you feel so free. Casting off is something to be celebrated! You participate in true expedition exploring. Our cruises are chosen for the experience, and aboard the ship we work hard to make you as comfortable and catered to as possible. But for us, it’s really about seeing the places that we cruise through—nature’s star performers of flora, fauna, and landscape.
Cruising lets you be you. You can be super social and have a great time at night in the lounge trading stories, playing music, and savoring great meals. Or, you can find a quiet spot on the ship to cozy up with a book, or perhaps even work on your photography with an onboard expert.
Our carefully chosen partners are masters at the logistics of making the most of your time on land and at sea, where experts give lectures to prepare for the next exciting landing.
I invite you to join us to discover places that are simply Better by Boat!
During our four-plus-hour river cruise, Ben’s deep knowledge about all things Alabama was outshone only by his folksy charm. An environmental reporter for twenty years in this state, his wildlife conservation bona fides are deeply rooted and home grown.
As we moved from one swampy natural wonder to another, part speed boat thrill ride part trolling motor, Ben told us just how special and how diverse the Mobile-Tensaw watershed is.
It leads the US in average rainfall: 77 inches per year, 22 more than Seattle.
Its 450 species of freshwater fish lead all states, representing a third of all freshwater fish species in the US.
Ranging from the Appalachian foothills in the northern part of the state to Mobile Bay, it is easily #1 in aquatic diversity among states, with new species being discovered all the time.
Ben harvested nutty American Lotus seeds for us, and buds of not-yet-uncurled leaves we are told will cook down like mustard greens. We lucked into a Mayfly hatch, which attracted a mobbing mixed flock of some 30 Prothonotary and Yellow Warblers. We saw colorful insects, wildflowers, fish and many birds. Ben also showed us a honey tree, a hollow tree trunk whose opening was ringed with bees. Locals used to hunt for honey trees and cut one down as a group, with each family taking home some of the sweet cache.
Yellow Warblers (pictured) and Prothonotary Warblers were mobbing Mayflies.
Lotus seeds were nutty and crisp.
A bryozoan, or tiny animal collective.
Grasshoppers are pernicious.
Our guests help support wildlife conservation.
Besides being an excellent boat captain, Ben is also a respected historian who personally discovered the burnt and scuttled wreckage of the last ship to bring enslaved Africans to the US, the ‘Clotilda’, as he documents in “The Last Slave Ship.” He also produced “The Underwater Forest,” a documentary about a 60,000-year-old submerged Cypress forest discovered off the coast of Alabama in 2004, just after Hurricane Ivan.
Suffice it to say we felt fortunate to have him as our expert local guide for the day.
But it wasn’t just dumb luck that brought us to Ben’s boat. It was his wildlife conservation connection with “professor” and guide Andrew Haffenden, who finishes up teaching Shorebird School today.
An Australian native who moved to Alabama in 2012, Andrew was briefly internationally famous along with Ben in 2018. Drew, while performing nesting surveys for Alabama Audubon, discovered a horrifying spectacle that Ben wrote about on Alabama.com:
“Beachgoers playing volleyball on a small island at the mouth of Mobile Bay perpetrated a horrific crime in recent weeks, likely killing hundreds of tiny Least Terns.
The volleyballers even stacked dozens of eggs stolen from nests in a pile to bake in the sun.”
Photo Credit: Andrew Haffenden
Laying their grape-sized eggs on scrapes in the sand in dense colonies, Least Terns spend most of their time trying to keep their eggs cool, Andrew said, standing above them to shade them, and periodically dunking their belly feathers to help with evapotranspirative cooling.
So when the volleyballers scooped up all the eggs and put them in a pile, the chicks might have had a higher survival rate if they’d just played among the nests. At least there might have been some shade. Because of onlookers and partiers, other nests not on the court also suffered, Andrew said, when parents weren’t able to get to their nests and tend them.
Drew loves his work.
Reddish Egret
American Oystercatcher
Snowy Plover
Great Blue Heron
It became a “teachable moment,” for locals, especially after the story spread around the globe, migrating as far as China, Andrew said. Ever since word got out, beachgoers have been by and large very compliant with signs and string-and-stake “fences” volunteers erect to protect breeding birds.
Since moving to Alabama in 2012, Andrew has helped collect nesting data for Least Tern, Snowy Plover, American Oystercatcher and Black Skimmer. For more than 9 years he’s been recording banding data on Piping and Snowy Plovers. His data, combined with others,’ convinced Audubon to designate Dauphin Island an “Important Bird Area.”
We were lucky to be there the first day the Great Black-backed Gull arrived
Two Royal Terns look almost alike, with Black Skimmer
Great Black-backed Gull
Audubon already operated a sanctuary on Dauphin Island, which is actually an archipelago of barrier beach islands that is well-known as a “migrant trap” in the spring. The first land that birds see after taking off in the Yucatan, it often records 25-plus warbler species during spring migration.
But you don’t have to wait until next year to bird the Gulf Coast with Andrew. This year he’s leading our Louisiana Yellow Rails and Birding Festival Oct. 27 to Nov. 1, one of the only places you’ll have a chance of seeing up to 6 species of reclusive rails in one location. And that includes the Black Rail, a bird so rarely seen that some people say that it’s a myth!
Next tours: Costa Rica Birding and Nature Jan. 5-12 and Feb. 9-16 with Pacific Coast Extension; and Southern Costa Rica Feb. 21-March 3
One of the most delightful and enduring drivers of Costa Rica tourism is the country’s astonishing variety of natural habitats, which host a rich biodiversity of plants, animals and insects. At least 5 percent of all known species found on the planet live in Costa Rica, on just .03 percent of Earth’s real estate.
Costa Rica’s varied terrain.
Costa Rica is the oldest democracy in Latin America.
Costa Rica is biodiverse beyond its size. It is smaller than West Virginia.
With both Pacific and Caribbean coasts, two mountain ranges arching into its spine, highlands and valleys, white water and cloud forests, volcanoes and dry forests it’s little wonder that more than 800 species of birds have found a niche there to call home, along with 208 mammal species, 50,000 insect species, and 2,000 orchids!
Yellow-throated Toucan. Photo Credit: Greg Smith
This Red-legged Honeycreeper was found on the grounds of the Maquenque Lodge in Costa Rica.
A Sunbittern in flight…one wonderful example of birding on the grounds of Rancho Naturalista.
Sometimes the birds come to us, like this Ornate Hawk-eagle at Maquenque Lodge.
Lesson’s Motmot. Photo Credit: Peg Abbott
Capuchin Mother and Baby. Photo Credit: Peg Abbott
Helic Passion Flower. Photo Credit: Peg Abbott
Red-Eyed Tree Frog. Photo Credit Greg Smith
Volcano Hummingbird. Photo Credit: Carlos Sanchez
Even at our relaxed and comfortable pace, the country’s diversity and compact size makes it easy to visit many habitats here, an endeavor made even easier by Costa Rica tourism’s leadership. Nearly a quarter of the country’s landmass is protected by national parks, biological reserves, wildlife refuges or other protected areas, allowing us to travel freely from one natural jewel to another.
“They have ecotourism down to a science,” said guide Carlos Sanchez, who has led many trips for Naturalist Journeys to Costa Rica. “Infrastructure is good, the birding is well thought out…people are often surprised just how easy it is to be there.”
The aerial tram at Tapirus Lodge brings us easy canopy birding!
Costa Rica offers visitors far less friction than many other countries. The tap water is good and you don’t need a converter to use the electrical outlets, Carlos said.
“People find they can instantly relax and focus on the birds and not have to worry about anything else.”
Our guests also get the benefit of our deep roots in the country. We have worked for more than 30 years with the same wonderful local partner.
The fact that Costa Rica is relatively small – West Virginia is a bit bigger – makes it so much easier getting from birding the rainforest canopy by aerial tram near coastal Limon to being serenaded by howler monkeys from a lowland boat safari close to the Nicaraguan border, to exploring the majesty of the Tenorio Volcano to gliding through the rain forest of Braulio Carrillo National Park.
Thanks to the magic of Costa Rica tourism, we’re able to do all of those things while maintaining a relaxed pace.
From guide Carlos, here are just a few examples of the birds we expect to see in each area of the October trip, as early migrating raptors and songbirds may be seen moving south:
“What’s so wonderful about birding in a place like Costa Rica, is that even going up in elevation 1000 or 2000 feet will produce an entirely different set of birds,” Carlos said.
Costa Rica Tourism = Gorgeous Ecolodges
Just like the surfers flock to Tamarindo Beach, and the ladies who spa hit Tabacon, we will find different birds congregating near each of the four inviting ecolodges on our Oct. 6-15 Costa Rica’s Carribean Side tour:
Lovely, bird-friendly gardens are a standard feature of Costa Rica ecolodges.
Celeste Mountain Lodge from above, showing how well Costa Rica ecolodges often blend into the surrounding forest.
Celeste Mountain Lodge’s spectacular waterfall pool.
Even indoor dining, as at Bosque de Paz here, often has an airy, outdoor feel.
Another indoor-outdoor dining room, this one at Celeste Mountain Lodge.
Beautiful Bosque de Paz Lodge
A bungalow style of accommodation is popular, adding privacy above and beyond our remote surroundings. Maquenque Lodge.
Birdwatching is often a matter of looking out a window or walking the grounds, as at Celeste Mountain Lodge.
Our Christmas in Costa Rica trip Dec. 22 – Dec. 29 includes visits to the Tapirus Lodge and also local favorite ecolodges Hotel La Quinta Sariquipi and Savegre Hotel, Natural Reserve and Spa.
Light and color spill through the windows at Savegre Hotel, Natural Reserve and Spa.
Hotel La Quinta Sariquipi from above.
Our three “classic” Costa Rica tours, Jan. 5-12, Feb. 9-16, and March 3-10 include stays at Savegre Mountain Lodge, Rancho Naturalista and SarapiquiS Rainforest Lodge.
Costa Rica ecolodges often are a mix of wood, tile and light! Savegre Mountain Lodge.
Birding at Savegre Mountain Lodge, as with many Costa Rica ecolodges, is a matter of taking a walk!
Savegre Mountain Lodge dining room.
The beautiful grounds of Savegre Mountain Lodge (Ecolodge)
The rooms at Rancho Naturalista shine.
Wonderful birding on the grounds of Rancho Naturalista.
Dining is wonderful and fresh at Rancho Naturalista.
SarapiquiS Rainforest Lodge
Wonderful whimsical rooms at SarapiquiS Rainforest Lodge.
Dining is a highlight of a day at SarapiquiS Rainforest Lodge.
These three trips offer a post-tour extension to the Pacific Coast, with stays at La Ensanada Lodge and Villa Lapas Lodge.
“This extension really adds so much to their trip,” Carlos said of the Pacific Coast 5-day, 4-night post-tour extension, which includes both a boat tour and a tractor tour of a working farm. “Sunsets there are so amazing, we see a wide spectrum of birds, and it’s really relaxed and easy birding.”
Naturalist Journeys’ Expert Pam Davis Has Connections and Savvy KAYAK Can’t Touch
It was December, and Naturalist Journeys guests had just returned from an epic Antarctic cruise to the port of Ushuaia, Argentina to find their airline on strike, putting return trips and holiday plans in jeopardy. But our unflappable international travel agent Pam Davis saved the day, busing our guests across the border to Chile and sending them home on a different airline.
Stories like these are what keep international travel agents in demand many decades after the demise of their profession was first incorrectly forecast.
Pam Davis, International Travel Agent Superstar
Pam helps our guests book travel into and out of smaller, out-of-the-way birding and nature hotspots and provides support in cases of unexpected turbulence.
International Travel Agents Will Get You Into AND Out of Africa
Pam’s expertise in Africa is one reason we felt super comfortable spontaneously putting together a new Combo Uganda-Kenya tour Sept. 5-25, 2021. We moved quickly to take advantage of the fabulous wildlife sightings being reported this year by safari game drives after a year of little tourist pressure. In a bit of a COVID silver lining, guests who book this Africa trip may experience the best wildlife viewing in recent years and for many years to come.
Our new safari combo takes in the best of both countries: the Kenyan wildebeest migration on the Masaai Mara and the wonderful gorillas, birds and other wildlife found in Uganda’s pristine forests and mountains.
We are able to confidently say “Don’t let getting there stop you from going there,” because we know Pam has deep experience, knowledge and most importantly, a genuine desire to make things happen. We are happy to pay her ticketing fees to help our guests make their way to the tour start in Entebbe, Uganda, and to depart out of Nairobi, Kenya. (We also pay Pam’s ticketing fees for any international tours in excess of $5,000.)
An Expert Ticketing Agent
With more than 40 years of experience in travel, Pam can sleuth out fares to out-of-the-way locations when other people can’t. And her service doesn’t stop once the ticket is issued. She supports our guests through whatever changes the travel gods might throw at them.
If a flight is unexpectedly canceled, she is automatically notified, and she immediately begins solving the problem. We’ve had guests flying in the air when their connection is canceled, and before they touch down and find out about it, Pam has already sent them a re-booking notice.
Through new technologies, namely the internet, people can book their own airfares to major airports through KAYAK.com and other aggregator sites. That slice of the travel agency business is long gone, like the hand-written airline tickets and the simple computation of fares that were standard in the industry when Pam first joined it in 1978.
There were just two ticket prices at that time, she says, “a one way fare, and round trip was 80 percent of two one ways.”
Now that ticketing is computerized and sales more diffuse, she said, “on any given airplane there might be 40 or 50 different fares that people paid.”
Change is Now a Constant
And the complexity doesn’t stop with ticketing. Flight schedules used to be reasonably stable, changing maybe once a month. Now they change nearly daily. There has been additional volatility with COVID vaccination and quarantine restrictions. As a result, International tour operators like us and travel agents like Pam spend a lot of their day keeping on top of unfolding events so our guests don’t have to.
“We are looking up the information every time someone asks a question,” she said. “Things are changing that often.”
Pam is gratified that she is starting to get travel requests from the 20- and 30-year-old children of her longtime clients, who have seen the magic worked by international travel agents and crave the comfort of a familiar voice on the phone when they’re far from home.
That support is taking up to three times as much effort these days, Pam said.
“It used to be there was one transaction and then they’d get to go on their trip,” she said. ”Now people will make a plan and rebook it and rebook it again,” she said.
Undeterred by obstacles, though, people seem determined to get out and start seeing the world again.
“Everyone wants to get the heck out of town,” said Pam, who is herself a frequent and adventurous traveler. “We’re all tired of being locked up.”
Our Adventures in Nature, Birding, and Ecotourism www.naturalistjourneys.com
Peg Abbott
